India, Right Now: the romance and reality of a continent-sized trip

India does scale without shouting. Trains that leave at 08:10 and arrive 1 hour 40 minutes later to a different century; ferries that slip across a harbour in 60 minutes and feel like a holiday already; cafés that open at 07:30 so you can dodge a 36°C afternoon. This is a love letter to a country in motion—practical timings, changing rules, and a soft spot for dusks on river ghats.

The big swell: visas, money, momentum

Tourism is back with its sleeves rolled. India logged about 9.95 million foreign tourist arrivals in 2024, while domestic trips soared to roughly 2.95 billion—the real engine of hotel openings and flight frequencies.

The paperwork is easier than it used to be: the e-Visa covers 171 countries, and there’s a limited visa on arrival for citizens of Japan, South Korea and some UAE nationals (with conditions). It’s still worth checking your exact category and airport list before booking.

On the ground, paying is less faff: visitors can use UPI One World wallets or pre-paid instruments to tap and scan for rickshaws, filter coffee or fort tickets—handy when ATMs sit 1.5 km away and it’s 33°C.

• When to go: Oct–Mar for kinder temps; Apr–Jun for deals (bring a hat).
• How to get there: London—Kempegowda International (BLR) or Rajiv Gandhi International (HYD) via one-stop hubs; e-Visa online.
• Value tip: Arrive Tue/Wed; first night near metro/rail to cut taxis by about £10–£20.

Delhi, in layers: Shahpur Jat to Mehrauli

Start early. At 07:00, the Jama Masjid courtyard is hushed; by 08:30 you’re threading 2.5 km through Chandni Chowk to Khari Baoli for spices (and a lassi at Natraj Dahi Bhalle). By lunch, hop south: Shahpur Jat’s boutiques along Fashion Street, then golden hour in the Mehrauli Archaeological Park beneath Qutub Minar. For couples, book Thai High or Olive Bar & Kitchen terraces around 19:30—the lamp-lit Qutub view does the rest.

Families: the green corridor from Lodhi Gardens to India Habitat Centre is pram-friendly and shaded for 1–2 hours; cafés on Lodhi Road open from 08:00. Decision: use the Violet Line to Lal Qila, then an ₹100–₹150 e-rickshaw instead of a car—quicker between lanes. One short rule: avoid 17:30–19:30 crosstown hops.

• When to go: Oct–Feb for crisp mornings; May–Jun only with early starts.
• How to get there: Metro to Jama Masjid/Lal Qila, then e-rickshaw; rides are 10–20 min each.
• Value tip: Stay near Jor Bagh or Green Park: straight Metro lines save ₹300–₹600/day in taxis.

Agra’s old flame: a classic with new tactics

The Taj Mahal opens 30 minutes before sunrise and shuts 30 minutes after sunset, and it’s closed on Fridays. Book the 08:10 Gatimaan Express from Delhi’s Hazrat Nizamuddin; you’ll be in Agra by 09:50 and home by 19:30 after a full day—1 h 40 m each way, air-conditioned. East Gate is usually the calmer entry; late afternoon light off the Yamuna is underrated.

Decision: go Tue–Thu, not Sat. Pair Agra Fort and Mehtab Bagh (for that across-river view). Families: keep a 90-minute cap inside the mausoleum; hop to Cafe Sheroes Hangout after. Couples: linger till 17:00–18:00 and cross to Mehtab Bagh for a quiet bench.

• When to go: Late Oct–Nov or Feb–Mar for clearer skies and thinner queues.
• How to get there: Delhi → Agra on Gatimaan Express (08:10/17:50); 1 h 40 m.
• Value tip: Skip on-the-spot touts; book official tickets and guides in advance to avoid “closed today” scams.

Harbour light: Mumbai to Alibaug by water

Mumbai does romance with a sea breeze. Take the Ro-Pax car ferry from Bhaucha Dhakka (Ferry Wharf) to Mandwa—about 60 minutes—then it’s 20 km to Alibaug beach cafés. Or go lighter: speedboats from the Gateway of India cover the harbour in roughly 20–30 minutes, salt spray included. Book the second morning sailing to dodge school runs and city traffic.

Families: Varsoli is wide and forgiving; carry snacks and plan a 2–3 hour window around tides. Couples: sunset at Kihim or Kashid, then seafood at Sanman in town by 20:00. Note: weekend return sailings between 16:00–18:00 are the first to fill.

• When to go: Nov–Mar for gentler seas; monsoon crossings can be curtailed.
• How to get there: Ro-Pax: Bhaucha Dhakka → Mandwa (~60 min); Speedboat: Gateway of India → Mandwa (20–30 min).
• Value tip: Foot-passenger ferries cost less and land steps from the Mandwa shuttle; cars add ££.

Backwaters, electrified: Kochi’s new water world

The Kochi Water Metro is part commuter fix, part floating viewpoint. Electric-hybrid boats link High Court, Fort Kochi, Mattancherry, Vyttila and Kakkanad with fares from roughly ₹20–₹60, running about every 20 minutes from morning till early evening. It’s a fuss-free way to fold the spice warehouses of Mattancherry into a beachy hour on Vypeen.

Decision: board the mid-afternoon High Court → Mattancherry → Willingdon leg, then time 17:30–18:30 on Princess Street in Fort Kochi for fishing-net sunsets and ginger tea. Families: the terminals are step-free; prams roll easily.

• When to go: Dec–Feb for clear evenings; Jun–Sep rides are scenic but rainy.
• How to get there: Fly into Kochi — Cochin International (COK); Water Metro links High Court, Fort Kochi, Mattancherry.
• Value tip: Buy the day pass if you’ll do 3 hops; fares are ₹20–₹60 per leg.

Wildlife windows: tigers need calendars too

If you’re eyeing Ranthambore or Bandhavgarh, note the monsoon closures. Core zones typically shut 1 July–30 September (outer zones may stay open in Ranthambore), with full reopening from early October. Book jeeps 60–90 days out in peak months; keep a buffer day in case heavy rain closes tracks.

Decision: one dawn, one dusk drive rather than two in a day—kids last better, and big cats prefer the edges of heat. Couples: pick a lodge near Zones 2–4 in Ranthambore to cut 25–40 minutes of transfers.

• When to go: Oct–Mar for comfort; Apr–May maximise sightings but hit 40°C .
• How to get there: Delhi/Jaipur to Sawai Madhopur for Ranthambore; Jabalpur for Bandhavgarh; jeeps pre-booked.
• Value tip: Mix one shared Canter with one private jeep; overall costs drop by 25–35%.

Rails & speed: a romance of timetables

The blue-and-white Vande Bharat network keeps growing—another four trains are being flagged off this week—to stitch temple towns, tiger gates and beachheads into 4–8 hour day hops. For longer stretches, book 2AC overnight and let the country flicker past in berth-sized chapters.

Decision: on Delhi–Varanasi, arrive by 10:30, then pace the Assi to Dashashwamedh ghats with a late boat at 18:00. Families: short day-trains with pantry cars win; couples: window seats and a tiffin from Kashi Chaat Bhandar.

• When to go: Post-monsoon (Oct–Dec) for greener fields; Jan mornings can dip to 8–10°C in the north.
• How to get there: Book IRCTC or agents for Vande Bharat; pad connections by 45–60 minutes.
• Value tip: Overnight 2AC saves one hotel night; day-train CC seats are cheaper than many flights on ≤600 km routes.

Rain plan, Mumbai edition: museums that breathe

CSMVS—the old Prince of Wales Museum on M.G. Road—runs roughly 10:15–18:00 with last ticket around 17:45 (check holidays). It’s a dry-season for noise and a monsoon shelter, minutes from Kala Ghoda cafés.

Nehru Science Centre in Worli is child-catnip—entry from ₹80, open 09:30–18:00 most days, with shows spaced through the afternoon. Decision: line up a 90-minute rotation—one gallery, one show, then a dosa at Ram Ashray before the 16:00 nap.

• When to go: Jun–Sep for monsoon cover; or late afternoons year-round.
• How to get there: Metro/rail to Churchgate for Fort; buses/cabs for Worli; plan 20–40 minutes between the two.
• Value tip: Combo ticketed shows at the Science Centre cost less than stand-alone buys.